Men are more willing than ever to spend on fashion, but there is room for growth in the local market and consumers need to take pride in SA design, writes Sandiso Ngubane.
Since the dawn of the “metrosexual” back in 1994, when the phrase was coined, a new, confident male consumer has emerged. Dull colours, straight-leg jeans and rugby jerseys were slowly relegated to the back of the closet. Bold prints, tailored looks and trendy fits took centre stage.
Men are now more willing than ever to spend money on looking good. Internationally, this new market has seen brands moving fast to step up their focus on the male consumer – so much so that the growth in the global menswear market is outstripping that of womenswear.
On the South African front, Marketline reported last year that the local menswear market was expected to generate more than R20-billion in revenue, representing a compound annual growth of 8.3% between 2009 and 2013.
Luxury brands
Even though growth in South Africa is slower than in other markets, it has favoured large-scale retailers such as the Foschini Group, which acquired Fabiani in 2011. The 36-year-old luxury menswear brand has since seen significant growth. Foschini expanded its Fabiani branches to 12 last year, from seven the previous year.
The brand now has 17 branches across the country, with more openings planned before the end of this year, according to head buyer and designer Nat Iqani.
“It has been an onward and upward progression,” he says. “Fabiani as a brand has evolved and maintained its position at the top of the menswear landscape in South Africa. We have a much stronger presence and image in the eye of the consumer now, stemming from the famous brand heritage.”
SA Fashion Week convener Lucilla Booyzen, talking of the platform she established 17 years ago, says: “In the beginning South Africa Fashion Week focused on building ladieswear. Currently South African ladieswear designers are supplying over 75 independent boutiques throughout the country.”
This is the success Booyzen says she envisions for menswear as her company moves to focus on a menswear competition for designers in this category who have not been in the industry for more than seven years. Set to be held during the spring/summer shows later in the year, Booyzen says now is the right time to start a competition that can elevate menswear designers and serve as a springboard for them to enter the business and retail platform more aggressively – much as has been done with ladieswear.
And renowned designer David Tlale last year chose to showcase a full menswear range during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town after several years of only featuring a few menswear looks in his womenswear shows. Spies stocked the collection exclusively at her Egality store. Tlale says, although many concerns still plague the local menswear industry, there is no doubt that the category is mirroring global growth.
“As with all young categories, menswear still has some way to go with fit and style. Our male customers often find local menswear too small and not sufficiently comfortable. This is changing rapidly and soon local menswear will be just as good as our ladieswear.
“Currently, men in general are not as interested in taking risks with their look. They are more interested in comfort and functionality. However, every month we see more male customers looking for something different that can define them better. Menswear is definitely on the rise.”
see full story in Mail & Guardian
